How strongly can the shape of the “turntable” petal affect the bite?
The shape of the petal of the “turntable” sometimes affects more than its size. And it can be very difficult to predict the nature of this influence. In my practice, there were cases when, for example, in two ponds located on the same stream very close to one another, perch showed diametrically opposite tastes. On one – he recognized only “Longy”, on the other – he was much better caught on spoons with an almost round petal. I tried to somehow resist this pattern, but in the end I finally became convinced that there is an unshakable system in the predilections of the perch on those two ponds. On most water bodies, such a clear preference for lures with a certain geometry of the petal is not observed, but some tendencies in the tastes of perch can be traced almost everywhere. That is why it is very useful, going for a perch to an unknown reservoir, equip yourself with “turntables” with petals of at least three or four shapes, and try to identify the optimal one along the way. This is more important than looking for the color of the lures.
When is it justified to fish for perch on a “shaker”?
Classic spinners generally generate less interest in perch than spinners. One of the main provoking factors in catching this predator are high-frequency oscillations, which are characteristic primarily for “turntables” and some wobblers. “Oscillators” work more in the low frequency range. Attempts to reduce the size of the spoon bait, as a rule, do not give an increase in the number of perch bites. However, the above applies primarily to small and medium-sized perch. With age, the perch changes their predilections, and if the average weight of the perch you are catching at the moment exceeds a pound, it makes obvious sense to try a “shaker”, and not small, but a normal “pike” size. It is indicative that I myself caught my record perch on a large “spoiler”, and for several of my friends, almost all cases of catching perch weighing about a kilogram and a half and more are associated with swaying spoons.
Wobblers of the “rattlin” class – I heard a lot about their catching power, but I almost didn’t catch perch myself, although I tried. What’s the matter here?
Rattlins cannot be classified as universal lures. Perch, like, however, other predators, can be caught by them very well, or may not react at all. It is possible to anticipate the reaction of the perch to these wobblers, given a few key points. First of all, small perch (less than 100 g) generally rarely bite on rattlins. Reducing the wobbler size does not give the desired result here. Therefore, the smallest rattlins (3-4 cm), in my opinion, are more suitable for catching small “white” predators (roach, chub) than perches. For a perch, a rattlin of 5-7 cm is optimal. Believe me, this is so – even if such a wobbler seems too big to you. Rattlins are more designed for catching school perch than single.
It is easier to “collect” lonely with the help of a “turntable”, while rattlin has the ability to “start” a perch flock. For rattlin, the correct choice of wiring technique is very important. It makes sense to start with a uniform one, but if there are no or few bites, you should definitely try to drive the wobbler with acceleration and deceleration. According to experience, the best results are obtained not by purely stepped wiring, but by wave-like wiring, in which the wobbler goes along a sinusoid. Although options are also possible. If we are looking for schooling perch in a large body of water, and there are no external signs to which one could attach (splashes, grass patches, etc.), rattlin will be one of the most effective baits. It casts itself far away and attracts the perch from a considerable distance.
It is believed that, ideally, the perch rod should be “slow” and the line should be monofilament. Is it so?
“Slow” tuning – this, perhaps, corresponds to the ideal. More precisely, not even purely “slow”, but closer to “average”, or “semi-parabolic”. If it is supposed to be mainly jigging, especially with a classic stepped wiring, then the “medium-fast” type of action will not be bad either. The fishing line, in my opinion, in any case, is preferable to multifilament. The argument for monofilament line – that it reduces the number of trips – is not convincing. The same effect can be easily achieved by using a soft rod with a low test and adjusting the drag with a slight undershoot. “Braid” will provide sensitivity and create an additional reserve of strength. Both are very important for perch fishing. It should only be borne in mind that the tackle specially designed for perch uses the thinnest multifilament cords – with a physical diameter rarely more than 0.13 mm.
author: Konstantin Kuzmin
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