Fly fishing rod
Most well-known manufacturers of fly fishing rods (without rings) now use progressive materials such as high-modulus carbon fiber reinforced plastic IM-4, IM-7, IM-9, etc. Naturally, the higher the grade of graphite, the better the rod structure and the smaller it the weight. But the price in this case "bites." Admittedly, in the 21st century, a fishing rod continues to be the most common tackle when fishing in open water. It is simple in its design, accessible to any beginner, and does not require a long development of castings. Depending on predilections and fishing conditions, both telescopic rods and with a plug connection are used. The latter less frequently.
When choosing a “telescope”, first of all, one should take into account the fact that it is impossible to achieve high strength with the maximum light weight, which depends on the wall thickness of the knees and the length of the rod. Significant thinning of the walls makes the rod easier, but also quite fragile, requiring careful handling. The best option is a rigid system of butt and middle knees and a rather flexible upper part that allows you to make a soft hook, as well as to successfully extinguish jerking fish in the process of fishing. High-modulus carbon fiber rods meet these requirements. For amateur fishing their length up to 8-9 m is usually sufficient; fishermen-athletes also use longer ones.
You can check the flywheel system in the store. A good quality rod when unfolded should not bend under its own weight. Many anglers prefer to use semi-rigid rods, which allow you to do a hand sweep and apply thin fishing lines. If you shake the extended rod before you buy and hear knocks – this means that the knees are not fitted carefully. Joints should be smooth, with no burrs or cracks. It is also advisable to disassemble the rod and look into the light inside each knee (except the top). Sometimes this way you can identify the internal defects of the rod.
The upper knees of the flywheel rods can be solid, hollow or combined. In my opinion, when fishing with a dull snap, the rod is more practical and stronger when a solid tip about 40-45 cm long is glued into the upper knee. The diameter of such a tip in the thinnest part does not exceed 1.2 mm. The attachment to the tip of the rod is most often fastened with a fastener made of stainless steel wire or a plastic connector. With a hollow apex, a mounting option is possible by means of an internal shock absorber, which passes through the entire rod. The main disadvantage of such a mount is not always a high-quality hooking.
Some amateur fishermen do not attach due importance to the design of the float and its proper, most rational loading when mounting equipment. As a result, most cautious bites go unnoticed, often the angler pod hooks for nothing. A well-made float has a maximum carrying capacity with a minimum size, it is sensitive to bite, is clearly visible on the water, and easily moves along the fishing line. And most importantly – it maintains a vertical position during any manipulation of gear during posting. Such foreign floats are produced by many foreign companies, you can make them yourself – it would be a desire. As a material, balsa and finely porous rigid foam are best suited. Before painting, the floats are covered with epoxy glue.
A modern float for blind equipment consists of four elements: a body, an antenna, a ring for skipping fishing lines and a keel. The shape and size of the float can be very different, but the choice of the float depends on the fishing conditions. For example, when fishing in quiet water, without wind, the most sensitive will be a float in the form of a needle (sometimes it is called "feather"). Due to the fact that it has a minimum frontal resistance, it responds very well to bite both to ascent and to sinking. At the same time, the fishing conditions are such that it is necessary to use floats that have greater drag when biting. What does it depend on?
In a flow, for example, a float behaves more steadily, with a high center of mass and a larger surface area than a “needle”. With a sufficiently long keel (from 5 cm and more), such a float works well on the wave and at a sufficiently strong current during wiring. In such situations, floats with a cylindrical or needle-shaped body are tilted, lie on their sides and generally behave unpredictably. In the blind snap, the float usually has two or three attachment points, on the main fishing line there are two types of sinkers: the main and the stock or a set of soft lead pellets. The main sinker balances most of the body of the float, and the sub-flooder melt the float so that the tip of the antenna protrudes from the water by only 1-2 cm.
Thus, the buoyancy of the float becomes close to zero, which greatly facilitates the fish's recession. When biting to "rise", such a float does not fall on the water, but only slightly floats, which is also clearly noticeable. Loading floats is best done at home. In windy weather, when the fish takes the bait lying at the bottom, it is advisable to move the main sinker to the reloading. And it also happens that both sinkers need to be lifted closer to the float, for example, when fishing on a slowly sinking bait. A leash 10-20 cm long is attached to the main fishing line in a loop-to-loop fashion. You must have a set of ready-made equipment for various conditions and taking into account the type of fish that you are going to catch. They store snap-ins on special plastic reels, starting to reel the fishing line from the hook.
After the next casting and when changing the nozzle, as well as after fishing the fish, in no case put the rod on the ground. To do this, use the coasters. At the end of fishing, before you assemble the rod, you must carefully wipe it with a clean rag. Otherwise, small grains of sand can get into the joints – and then scratches during assembly are provided. I did not catch fly-fishing rods with a plug connection, so I will refrain from talking about this topic.
author: Kazantsev V.
Open Water Fishing (Complete Fishing Guide)
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