Today, it can be confidently stated that the English donka is firmly established in Russian reservoirs. What is this gear? At the end of the last century, more or less thorough materials on this topic began to appear in the national fishing literature for the first time. But there was a lot of confusion in terminology. And, probably, this is explained by the fact that on the form of their rods some companies still denote the word quiver (Mitchell), others – picker (Zebco, Robinson), others – feeder (Browning), etc. In essence, such a distinction is very conditionally, since the main difference between the picker and the feeder is only in the snap.
Fishing rods. At present, carbon fiber, carbon composite and fiberglass fishing rods of the picker or feeder type are on sale. By power, such rods can be divided into light, medium and heavy. In accordance with the type of fishing rod, a reel and equipment are selected. If you do not intend to have a more or less complete set, I recommend limiting yourself to an average fishing rod designed for casting a feeder or sinker with a maximum weight of 60-80 g. For the conditions of the Lower Volga, for example, this is quite an acceptable option.
A characteristic feature of rods for the English donka is a rather large number of passage rings of smaller diameter than on a conventional spinning rod, and the presence of a removable flexible quivertype. The English word "quivertip" in translation into Russian means "trembling tip." It is better if the kit contains 2-3 tips with varying degrees of elasticity. In this case, you will be able to fish without problems in quiet water and in the course. And not only 100-gram roach, but also more solid specimens. Rather expensive carbon-fiber models of rods are usually sold complete with 2-4 flexible tips, the strength of which is ensured by a multi-strand steel rod.
Among Western fishers, feeder rods of such well-known companies as Shimano, Daiva, Abu Garcia, Mitchell, Zebko are very popular. Depending on the length, they can consist of two or three elbows; a flexible tip, a quivertype, is inserted into the upper elbow. The knee connection is plug-in. Most heavy and highly specialized models do not have interchangeable flexible tips. And this is justified given the large loads when fishing especially large fish. As for the bite, it is perfectly visible on the upper knee of such a "stick".
Replaceable quivertypes have very significant advantages over traditional bite signaling devices, especially pendulum ones, such as swing types and spring types that are screwed into the upper knee of the rod. Unlike the latter, the quivertype is a continuation of the form, does not interfere when throwing equipment, is not exposed to wind, even side wind. And, most importantly, it is sensitive to bite. The upper part of such a tip is usually painted bright red or bright yellow for better visibility.
English bottom rods, depending on the cost, can be equipped with various quality access rings. However, it should be noted that they do not have to be made of silicon carbide (sic), because they do not bear the load that is typical for fishing by spinning in the cast. Modern pickers and feeders, depending on the cost, have a cork or “rubber” handle and, as a rule, a screw reel seat. The most popular fishing rods in fresh water bodies are rods from 2.5 to 3.5 m long. The longer your rod is, the easier it is to make long casts. In cramped conditions, say, when fishing from an overgrown shore, it is more convenient to use shorter rods, 1.8-2 m long.
Coils To equip the English donkey, the most acceptable option is an open inertialess coil. It makes it easy to cast, both with a sinker in a snap, and with a feeder. In this case, it is desirable to have 2-3 spare spools that you will need for woods of various diameters. The requirements for the reel in this case, of course, should not be as high as in spinning. Firstly, the donor don’t make frequent casts, and secondly, the reel experiences the main load only in the process of catching especially large specimens of fish. As a rule, it is quite possible to get by with a coil with two or three ball bearings, one of which is installed in the rotor.
And the fact that it is speed or power (traction) does not matter. True, the friction brake must be reliable and it is desirable that it is finely adjusted. This is necessary when fishing in extreme conditions, as well as in cases where the fish takes sharply and you need to adjust the clutch so that the fishing line is pulled freely from the spool. Otherwise there will be many empty bites. By its weight, the reel must correspond to the class of the rod, only observing this requirement, you will have a well-balanced tackle. The reel spool is filled, just like in a spinning rod: the fishing line is wound until 2-3 mm remain to the edges of the rim.
Fishing line. Adherents of the English bottom fishing rod use both monophilic and braided fishing lines. Those and others in this form of fishing have their own advantages and disadvantages. If we talk about the advantages of monofilament fishing line, then they come down mainly to its depreciation properties. This provides a softer cut and allows you to dampen fish casts during survival. The best modern monofilaments with a diameter of 0.25 mm withstand dead weight weighing up to five or more kilograms. This is enough to cope with the pood trophy with skillful survival. As for the shortcomings, I would say the following. Any fishing line requires a careful attitude, otherwise there can be no talk of any durability. Given the fact that in the snap-in of the bottom fishing rod there are always various stoppers that have to be moved along the main fishing line, which makes it spiral in these places, then, in my opinion, this is one of the main disadvantages of monofilament. Personally, I use monofilament in the range from 0.14 mm to 0.25 mm for bottom fishing with reel tackle.
Braided fishing lines, or in everyday life braids, have a number of undeniable advantages over monophiles. However, most of our donor anglers are familiar with superfishes made of polyethylene fibers only by hearsay. There are reasons for this: a rather high price with a low cost of living. I must say that not all multi-fiber fishing lines can be called braided in the strict sense of the word. Not so recent developments, for example, of such well-known companies as Spiderwire / Johnson Worldwide and Berkley, are represented by fishing lines made of many finest longitudinally arranged polyethylene fibers fused into one slightly twisted fiber. The new Fusion and FireLine have high strength and practically do not stretch under load, but this is where their similarity with the classic "braids" ends.
Unlike the latter, fused-fiber fishing lines are tougher, their surface is smoother. They get less tangled, “repel” dirt, allow you to throw more and make short operational sweeps even at a considerable distance. The main advantage of any “braid” over monofilament fishing line is the lack of extensibility, and due to this, an extremely high sensitivity to bites is achieved. But this advantage for an inexperienced angler may be a disadvantage. If you are accustomed to monofilament and strongly hook even when the clutch is fully tightened, in the case of a “braid”, and even a thickness of 0.20 mm, you can get a rod or reel breakage as a result of such actions. Therefore, the first requirement is to always use a coil with a clearly adjustable brake.
And, of course, in no case should you try to release the equipment with a dead hook with the help of sharp and strong jerks with a fishing rod. The bottom of the main fishing line – “braids” in contact with the bottom soil, I advise you to inspect carefully more often. This is especially true when fishing on shell brow. Open shell shells can not only loosen the fishing line, but also lead to a cliff. However, monofil fishing line is not immune from this fate. The disadvantages of braids should be attributed to their opacity, which often negatively affects the fishing of careful fish. Using braided fishing line as the main one, I usually limit myself to its maximum cross section of 0.14 mm.
Hooks A hook is that element of any tackle, on which the reliability of hooking and the successful survival of fish depend. In many of my publications, I already wrote about the need to most seriously approach the choice of a hook for catching various fish and various attachments. So, a hook designed to catch, say, bloodworms or maggots, may not be suitable for fishing on an earthworm. The fact is that inside the worm (not seasoned in moss) there is a “column” of earth that, when planted and hooked, and especially when plucked, damages the sting of the hook. Earth – is earth, acts as an abrasive.
When fishing on earthworms, in my opinion, hooks such as those produced by Owner are most suitable. Her trademark is Cutting Point. The peculiarity of such a hook is that its tip has three cutting edges and ends with an ideal needle point that does not need constant sharpening. The exception is if you are fishing in rocky places. Three cutting edges of the stings during cutting easily pass through both the cartilaginous and bony parts of the fish’s mouth.
Pretty quickly, the hooks are dull due to the fact that fishing is carried out in areas of a reservoir with a rocky bottom. Especially often this happens when fishing on bottom gear with a feeder or a heavy sinker. Experienced donors, knowing that after an empty bite the hook tip can be exposed, try to remove the tackle so that the hooks with the rest of the bait do not hit the stones. To do this, it is enough to sharply raise the tip of the rod and rewind the fishing line in an accelerated manner.
Failure of a very sharp hook tip can also occur if the fisherman, without using the sucker, takes out the prey on the fishing line. At the same time, the fish, being on a rocky shore, begins to panic tumbling. And if the sting comes out of the tissues of her mouth, its breakage is usually ensured. And finally, the last – the most trivial – reason for the quick failure of the hook is that you knowingly sold the defective goods. This sometimes happens even in the practice of firms, it would seem with an impeccable reputation.
To determine the quality of the hooks, you can donate one hook from each series for the experiment using pliers. In an under-hook, the sting slightly bends before breaking, and in the over-hook, it will burst from light pressure. And further. Very sharpened hooks should not be stored and carried in bulk in a common box. From friction against each other, their stings will be dull. I personally always have a stock of hooks with me stuck in a foam plate, which I put in a plastic box. In the production of the highest quality hooks, high-quality steel is currently being used using unique technologies for hardening hooks and sharpening stings. In my opinion, among the best hook manufacturers in the world, besides the above Owner, there are such companies as Eurostar (formerly Sil-star), Eagle Clow, Gamakatsu and some others.
Catching bottom gear (picker or feeder), I use hooks depending on the size of the nozzle. For small nozzles, these can be hooks No. 18 and even No. 20. The same nozzles as cutting, dead fish, a bunch of worms, a neck of cancer, naturally, require larger hooks.
author: Kazantsev V.
Open Water Fishing (Complete Fishing Guide)
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