The first thing to do before buying a feeder is to decide on which ponds and in what conditions you have to catch. Or it is only payers, or also reservoirs, or rivers, including those with a strong current. In order not to buy several rods, which is unprofitable for many, but to confine oneself, it is necessary to determine in advance what the maximum test of the rod should be and its length. Suppose you have to catch including on rivers with a strong current. In this case, it is better to purchase a model with a sufficiently large test. Given that each feeder includes three or even four vertices of different elasticities, it is worth taking a rod with dough up to 120 g and a length of 3.6-3.9 m. With the same rod, putting a softer tip, you can catch in any body of water.
Having picked up a fishing-rod, it is necessary to decide on the reel. In my opinion, for feeder fishing it is still much better to use not a spinning reel, but a specialized model with a beitraner. This mechanism allows you to set such a force of descent of the line that the loaded tip of the rod showed a bite, but with a little extra effort, the spool would begin to rotate, handing over the fishing line. During fishing, you can be distracted, and then with a sharp bite, a feeder equipped with a conventional coil flies from the racks; such cases are not uncommon in carp fishing. Distracting from the theme of the feeder, we can add that the beitraner is very useful when fishing on live bait. Having taken it, the predator first moves away a certain distance and only then begins to swallow. Beitraner allows the predator to do all this without experiencing much resistance. At the same time, when a beitraner is not needed, it is simply not turned on, but the ability to use the additional function of the coil never hurts.
The most suitable coil size is the three thousandth. The choice of a specific company and model is a matter of personal preferences and the thickness of the angler’s wallet, but the presence of at least one spool with a metal side is necessary. We wind a monofil on an ordinary spool. It is advisable to take a large unwind so that you do not have to use backing, that is, winding. We wind a braid on a metal spool, it is also desirable 200 meters in one piece. Such a quantity of fishing line is necessary because, say, when fishing for carp, casting can be 100 meters, and after fishing, the fish can take 20-30 meters with one jerk, so it’s just not possible less than 150 m, but the optimum line diameter is 200 m. on the size of the alleged fish.
There are good monofil feeder fishing lines, say from Trabucco, with a diameter of 0.2 mm and a breaking load of 5.5 kg. With such a fishing line, it will not be difficult to pull out fish up to 8 kg. If in doubt, you can put 0.22 mm with a strength of 6.95 kg, but there are not so many places where you can count on carp for 10 kg, and in general you need to go with other gear for trophy specimens. A fishing line of such diameters allows casting over 100 m. Among the braids for feeder fishing, soft non-sheathed cords with a diameter of about 0.12, maximum 0.14 mm are most suitable. With good rings, from which all the influxes of varnish and epoxy are carefully removed, the braid will last a long time, but nevertheless it is better to use it on the course.
If you have to catch in harsh conditions, such as shells, or with heavy feeders, it is worth buying a fishing line for the shock leader. It is better to immediately take a special rigid fishing line with a breaking load of 30 Lb, that is, approximately 13-14 kg. This strength is enough for use with feeders weighing up to 100-120 g. With the shock leader, you can use either mono or braid as the main one. The general recommendation is simple: during the course, preference is given to wicker, with a weak bite – mono. But this choice still mainly depends on the taste and capabilities of the angler.
Finally, a few words about the catch itself. Many people catch the feeder incorrectly: they install the fishing rod on the shore of the reservoir on one stand, the butt rests on the ground. As a result, the angler must always look at the tip with his head up. With a rod length of 3.6-3.9 m, the neck naturally numb quickly. In addition, against the background of running clouds or the bright sun, it is difficult to notice a bite. Therefore, it is better to put the rod on two stands almost horizontally, trying to raise the coil higher above the ground. The high position of the coil is especially important in rain and wind: this way less dirt gets on it. If the rod is installed horizontally, then only along the coast: the bite is better seen. But this setup has its own trick. The tip of the whip can be against the background of water with ripples, swaying grass, leaves – from all this, your eyes get tired very quickly.
To prevent this from happening, you need to change the background by sticking a special plate in the ground next to the tulip. It can be about half the size of a notebook, the color is white or any other light, but always matte. In the center of the plate there is a wide dark strip, to the left and right at a distance of about 1 cm there are the same bold stripes, but with a length of 2/3 of the width of the plate. After the final installation of the feeder, the tulip of the bent tip should be opposite the center strip of the plate. Watching the behavior of the tip against the background of such a tablet is not tiring, the eyes do not get tired, and any movement of the whip relative to the contrasting bands is clearly noticeable. Even if you had to move away, when biting, the feeder will remain in place thanks to the beitraner turned on, and after the reel passes the fishing line, the tulip on the top of the rod will be in a new position, which is easy to notice, having a marked contrasting background. This shift will show that during the absence it was a bit of a hassle and we need to do a control cut. It often happens that the fish, taking the nozzle, slightly moves away and stands motionless.
There are subtleties in the preparation of coils. Almost all spools, including expensive models, often cut sharp burrs after milling the groove for the fishing line clip. Since spools are usually made of aluminum, burrs can be removed with the tip of a sharp knife, removing a small chamfer along the edge of the groove. Many do not even realize the need to check this part and as a result, after wrapping a new fishing line and tucking it under the clip, they snap off fishing gear during the first cast. Usually all claims go to the fishing line, but in this case it is completely to blame for nothing.
Now many metal spools have holes in their skirts made to reduce the total weight. It seems to be a good solution, but there is one “but”. In the working coil, the rod performs reciprocating movements, so that at maximum output it becomes visible through the holes in the skirt of the spool. At this moment, dust and dirt can get on the rod, which will then be pulled into the mechanism. Therefore, in order to avoid possible troubles, all openings on the skirt must be sealed with narrow tape. This slightly worsens the appearance of the coil, but it will not require repair for much longer.
author Vladimir ZAMYSHLYAEV