About jig fishing with small weights in recent years, many good articles have been written. In fact, the topic is revealed. In this article, I share only my own experience of such fishing, not claiming a breadth of view. At the heart of my approach to microjig fishing is the principle of minimal financial costs and the desire to catch not in a sports but in an amateur way.
Rod and reel
Although the search for universal gear suitable for a variety of fishing conditions and methods is a utopian occupation, thoughts of him visit me from time to time. So, we catch baits, the weight of which rarely exceeds 3 g, so it’s good to have a fast fishing rod with dough up to 5 g. And if this is not? Then anyone with a test up to 20 g will do! Moreover, my friend and I successfully used a fishing rod of a well-known Korean brand with doughs up to 35 g. Naturally, we are talking about graphite spinning rods. However, if the test exceeds 12 g, the length of the rod should be more than 2.4 m, for example, 2.7-3.0 m. It is desirable, of course, that the lower border of the test is smaller. But sometimes I catch with a dough rod with a dough of 10-20 g, with a medium-fast system. The fact is that with a long length, even with a relatively powerful fishing rod, you can cast a bait of 2 g per 10 m and beyond. True, provided that the reel in weight and size is less than that required for the so-called "balanced" gear. Let's say the 1000th or 1500th coil is used according to the Shimano classification, in the extreme case, the 2000th. The second, and, in my opinion, the most important condition is a correctly selected fishing line.
I try to save on it last. The thinner the better. Reasonably, of course. Although the monofilament has less resistance when passing through the rings than braided cords, with a not very sensitive rod it is better to use a low-stretch braid. With a conditional diameter of up to 0.1, and preferably even up to 0.08 mm. It is very important that the fishing line completely fills the spool, but again to a reasonable limit: there should be no self-discharge and beards. Typically, the edge of the bobbin side protrudes over the winding by 0.20-0.35 mm. If a break occurs, which, unfortunately, is inevitable, I wind up a backing from a cheap monophile under the braid.
In my microjig catches, 90% is occupied by small pike, small and medium perch. Hence the selection of lures. I used to “scan” fishing shops in search of small jig heads up to 2 g. Once they cost no more than one and a half rubles apiece, but now I can’t find seven each. Moreover, in our stores, very different from the capital in assortment, such heads, as a rule, do not exist at all. And in three to four hours of fishing they can be cut off 15-20 pieces. My friend once cast about three hundred heads during the winter. In two spinning we finished them in one season. “Samodelkin” did not dare to repeat his feat. But there was, though not too elegant, but a very simple way out.
We take cheap hooks with a long forearm of the sixth and more numbers according to domestic numbering. We bend the fore-end at the eyelet at a direct, or not very, angle in the direction of the drop. If the wire is steely and can break, we pre-heat the bend point with a lighter. Then we set the lead pellet at an angle so that the ring is on top, like a magazine jig head. Dull hooks straighten the whetstone. Done! You can break off. Sometimes, if hooks are not foreseen, you can “kick off” with Gamakatsu or Owner. The use of a carbine is determined by the same condition. It is convenient, of course, to quickly change the bait, only by fastening and unfastening the carbine, but after breaking a few pieces, you begin to save and tie directly with any quick knot. I put a homemade lead from steel wire with a diameter of 0.09-0.11 mm only if there is a high probability of biting a pike.
I refused to use various microneedles on offset hooks and other things, because in my favorite places hooks with them are not noticeably smaller, but the “non-hooks” of fish are added by an order of magnitude. For the same reason, I don’t catch Texas equipment and its variations, and I just don’t like it. As lures I use the smallest twisters and vibro-tails. If the quality of the rubber leaves much to be desired, for example, it is "zadubil", boil in water for 4 minutes. Usually, rubber after such a procedure becomes softer and begins to “play”. The most common colors in our reservoirs: white, red, acid green. But there is a large color gamut in the arsenal, some lures combine two colors or more, which allows you to experiment. Especially in the fall, when the water becomes clear. If the rubber seems too big, boldly wield it with scissors.
Somehow I came across small jig heads with a pinwheel attached to the bottom. I assumed, as probably the authors of the invention, that this petal additionally attracts fish. Now, after several years of experiments with microjigging, I dare to assert that the presence of a metal petal in jig heads reduces its effectiveness, rather, it even scares away fish. In any case, in those reservoirs where I fished.
It is clear that if you use such "unsuitable" rods, then, as a rule, we are not talking about any punches to the hand. Everything is done by eye. And casting, and uneven, stepped wiring, and hooking. It is necessary to constantly monitor the change in the braid tension. If it is hard to see against the background of dark water, I choose a different viewing angle so that there is a bright sky or coastal sand behind the braid. Learning to “read” the line requires more practice. Over time, it is possible to distinguish when the braid tension changed from biting, and when from an underwater obstacle in the form of a stone or driftwood. Well, if before in a pond it was possible to effectively catch lures or lures. Judging from my experience, the effectiveness of using microjig baits, as a rule, is higher. In addition, in strong places, it’s a pity to deadly hook your favorite lure or catch spinner.
I usually micro-jig in small ponds protected from the wind by coastal trees or bushes. But even in big water, including the Rybinsk Reservoir, microjig allowed to outwit passive and well-fed fish. Of course, not in a strong wind. I use the same wiring as with large weights in a classic jig: steps with large and small amplitudes, bottom dragging, wiring in the water column. There are many options.
If you describe the features of biting pike and perch, then in fact nothing new I will not say. The larger the fish, the more distinct the bite is. As a rule, you need to show the bait more to the pike, making three to four or even five turns with the reel handle. But it happens, especially with changing weather conditions, that the pike is savoring the twister, barely touching it, despite the micro-sizes of the bait. Then you have to put high-quality hooks from Japanese manufacturers. To take the perch, often the bait must lie down at the bottom or drag it slowly. In general, biting perch rarely happens on the reel – usually on the fall of the bait or at a complete stop.
The main thing is skill
On one of the last fishing trips, a friend gave a couple of perches to his balanced micro-jigging gear. A sensitive fishing rod of a fast system made of high-modulus graphite with a test from 0 to 7 g for twelve thousand rubles very nicely fit into the hand. But even with that spinning rod, I did not feel a bite in my hand and did not see it on the tip of the rod – I controlled everything by tensioning the braids. So what to do if there is no opportunity to purchase special gear? You just have to adapt. It is not the tackle that catches, but the fisherman.
author Mikola ZUHAR