I bought a coil about a month ago. So she, when shaking under load, somehow strangely taps. Maybe you should go through and add some lubricants?
How many spinning reels I have, including very expensive ones, you could always find signs of imperfection in their work if you wanted, and tapping on the reel is one of these signs. So here the rule fully works: he who seeks will always find. It’s another matter that for some such things are critical, while others do not notice them and, generally speaking, do the right thing. When you buy a reel, you definitely try it at idle, that is, without load. At this stage, however, it is possible to identify only the most obvious cases of substandardization. Then, while fishing, you have the opportunity to evaluate how the reel behaves under load. And if, for example, it can hardly cope with the wiring on the jet of a large “turntable”, you have the right to return it to the store within two weeks. But it is better to foresee such things in advance, choosing the model and size of the reel for the fishing conditions you need.
Worse, if on the first fishing trips with the reel everything was fine, and then you notice negative changes in its operation: the stroke as a whole becomes heavier, knocks more and more under load. It’s too late to run back to the store here. The reasons for the deterioration of the running characteristics of the coil may be different. If it was loaded with an excessively strong braid, then often nothing can be fixed. It is another matter if the problem is a lack of lubrication or “fear of water”. As for the lack of lubricant, in some series of coils it takes place as a system, that is, the manufacturer saves on lubrication for some reason. If you are buying a reel at a serious outlet, sellers usually have this kind of information and give a proper answer to a direct question. If you take such a reel, then after one or two fishing trips, when the standard lubricant is distributed more or less evenly, it is worth adding a little extra lubricant.
In this case, it is best to be guided by the diagram, which shows the lubrication system, and use the lubricant that comes with a small tube to the spool. If not included, then you can take some standard neutral lubricant – for example, Mitchell’s. It can be combined with almost all standard lubricants, and there is no need to thoroughly remove the original lubricant before applying it. Hydrophobia is a rare problem with spinning reels. After involuntary bathing, and sometimes – after just fishing in heavy rain, the reel travel becomes heavy, up to a full “wedge”. From experience, in such cases it is necessary to remove the side cover, and even if there are no signs of water inside, leave it in a dry place in such a semi-disassembled state for several days, and add a little grease before assembly. After that, the working qualities of the coil, as a rule, are restored. But henceforth, water is not recommended for her. I caught the whole last season with a Balzer Edition Seatrout spinning rod. Before that I caught with a “stick” for 500 rubles. The contrast is very high and in many respects is not in favor of a more expensive rod.
And I don’t feel anything with this “Balzer”, and the handle is long. Maybe trim?
When a person gets used to any one standard of a rod, anything that goes beyond this standard is difficult to perceive. Spinning rods of the “Sitraut” type – from various companies – are quite specific. They almost always have a long handle and semi-parabolic tuning. They all have average sensitivity, to put it mildly. Incidentally, I, too, when switching from “Whisker” to “Sitraut”, experienced “difficult” sensations. Then I got used to it – and everything fell into place. There, the throwing technique is different, and much more. Another thing is that, as experience shows, many people still cannot get used to it, and then ideas arise about improving the “stick” for themselves. Shortening the handle is one such idea. I myself have never shortened the handle, but lengthened it – it was.
According to the reviews of those who shortened, they did not achieve the desired effect, and the problems associated with different knee lengths made themselves felt. The conclusion is that the “stick”, if there is such an opportunity, is best sold. It is very possible that her new owner will have different views on the ideal of the rod and other needs. And one more general remark. If you have your eye on a new spinning rod, it is advisable that one of your acquaintances already had it. Then you will have both practical recommendations and the opportunity to try the “stick” on the pond yourself. And you won’t take a pig in a poke.
Since last year I have been mastering “cartoon”. Everything suits, except for the casting distance. Someone from my acquaintances said: if you remove the “carrier”, it will fly much further. But how then should the line be laid? So is it worth filming the carrier or not?
It so happened that one of my first “cartoons” was the domestic “Orion-007”. It was a striking anti-example against which all other “cartoons” seemed to be examples of perfection. Fishing on the third, the “Orion” got a “carrier” – it just froze in one of the extreme positions. The gear must have slipped off. But I was too lazy to fix anything, I just forgot about the “carrier”. I used Orion for a season and a half, and, to be honest, didn’t really complain. At least, “having not tasted anything sweeter than carrots,” I believed that the “cartoon” should be thrown just like I threw my “Orion”. And, which is typical, when I crossed paths with other spinning players with the same “cartoons”, I noticed that their casts were still shorter.
Later, I had a Rocket series animator, which was initially devoid of a “carrier”. I did not make a head-on comparison, but the impression was that, all other things being equal, a “cartoon” without a line layer gives a throw fifteen meters further. As for the inevitable problem in such cases – laying the fishing line by hand – if it is seriously annoying, then more at first, then you get used to it. However, I would like to note that if we take tackle of a real practical class, then, contrary to popular legends, in an effort to achieve maximum range, you should use a “meat grinder”, and not a “cartoon”.
In magazines every now and then there are publications about the refinement of soft plastic baits. However, my friends, who have been jigging for a long time, say that this is all nonsense. Whom to believe?
As a first approximation, I am ready to agree with the idea of nonsense. In our time, home-made cutting, smelting, cooking, etc. of silicone, if it has any practical significance, is the very minimum, and all the theoretical justification for such operations, designed to justify them, has been sucked out of thin air. It was at the dawn of our development of “rubber” baits that such things were “rolled”. For example, in the first year of the existence of the Moscow spinning club in it at two seminars in a row, I remember, it was just about the methods of “revitalizing” languidly playing twisters and vibro-tails by cutting and boiling them. However, the fact that such methods manage to change the play of silicone baits is quite obvious. Only here is the answer to the logically following question: “Will this lead to an improvement in bite?” – I would be careful not to give.
Perhaps we want our efforts to fine-tune the lures to be worthwhile, but the fish may have their own special opinion on this matter. And don’t you remember the opposite examples – when, say, the perches sluggishly pecked at an actively playing twister, but after the bait’s tail fell off, they suddenly began to hang one after the other? In short, if anything is worth doing in this area, then your actions should have a simple practical rationale. For example, the vibrotail does not fit on the offset flyer, it can either be cut or planted by turning it ninety degrees. To some, the latter may seem fundamentally wrong, but the predator, again, has its own special opinion on this matter …
author: Konstantin Kuzmin
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