Ten questions about hooks. Part 1

Should I change a hook that has been unbent several times on the hooks so that it does not break on the fish? In the village with the ridiculous name of Kolyubakino, serious things cannot be done. We realized this a dozen years ago, when hooks Mustad, VMC, Eagle Claw began to appear in our fishing shops. In this connection, I even remember, they used to say: a chicken is not a bird, a warrant officer is not an officer, a Zaporozhets is not a car, a Kolyubakinsky hook is not a hook. However, after all, we have been fishing for so many years with the hooks of this factory near Moscow, and someone still catches …

We often use a jig in a snag. Where is the best place to anneal the hooks so that they unbend on the hooks, but hold the fish?

All my desire to anneal the hooks faded after just one fishing trip. It was at a time when I was just starting to learn how to fish with foam rubber, and someone, after I complained about the terrible losses of lures from the hooks, advised me to let go of the hooks with the flame of a gas burner. On that day, I still tore off up to a dozen foam rubber, but because of the weak hooks, I missed three pike perch, each weighing about a kilogram, which in a normal scenario I simply had to take. Later, I touched on this topic in conversations with many qualified spinningists. It turned out that some of them also tried to fish in snags with annealed hooks, but quickly gave up. And the nuances of at which point it is better to anneal the hook do not really matter. And it is better to resist hooks by other methods.

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Should I change a hook that has been unbent several times on the hooks so that it does not break on the fish?

This, by the way, is one of these very methods – to choose such a ratio between the “extension” strength of the hooks and the breaking strength of the line so that the hooks unbend on the hooks. The method, in my opinion, is not the best, but in some typical situations it is quite justified … You may ask here: what, in fact, is “just a weak” hook better than an annealed one? Better yet, it is predictable in its properties. Annealed hooks, firstly, can have a very wide range of values ​​at which they unbend, and secondly, they break quickly, while a high-quality hook made of relatively thin wire allows unbending and reshaping up to ten times or more – without noticeable damage … High-quality does not mean expensive, options are possible here. Such hooks on wobblers are most justified. In the case of jig lures, especially designed primarily for catching zander, you should not get carried away with hooks made of emphasized thin wire. Here it is better to put a double, for example, from the classic Eagle Claw numbers 1/0 or 2/0 in combination with a 20-liber cord, which allows in most cases to unbend even such a powerful hook when hooked.

Often you have to fish in places with a rocky bottom. Is it true that hooks in such conditions need to be sharpened several times during fishing?

Yes and no. First of all, we note that it is not recommended to grind hooks of some series at all. This includes, for example, Owner hooks with “shaped” sharpening of the blade in the form of cutting edges. It is better not to let them go to slaughter at all in such difficult conditions. Most other types of hooks can and should be sharpened periodically. Here are just a few times a day – this is, perhaps, an overkill, unless, of course, your wobbler or “turntable” is not “programmed” for inevitable death during this very day. Still, fishing on a rocky bottom does not automatically entail large losses of baits. There are two key points here. First, hooks don’t have to be perfectly sharp all the time.

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Sometimes one gets the impression that a large number of empty bites is largely due to the insufficient sharpness of the hooks, but an objective comparison shows that even with ideally sharp hooks, there are many idle contacts of the predator with the bait. Therefore, if the sting of the hook slides over the nail, you should not immediately remove the special sharpening tool from the pocket of the vest. By the way, this criterion for the sharpness of the hook, in my opinion, is not the most successful. Rather, you will be able to assess the quality of the tip sharpening with the pad of your finger. Second: the hooks, when they hit the stones, should not be sharpened, but only slightly sharpened – again, without bringing them to ideal sharpness. Then the stings will withstand at least five to seven such operations without noticeable damage. Otherwise, after the third or fourth sharpening, the sting becomes noticeably shorter, which actually means that this hook has worked out its resource and needs to be changed.

How much need to sharpen new hooks?

A good friend of mine (VB), after buying new wobblers, without fail gives them to a specialist who brings the sharpness of the hooks to the level of sharpening surgical instruments. I never tried to dissuade him of the need for this difficult, in general, operation. Moreover, we are talking about expensive wobblers, on which the hooks are of more than decent quality. In the secret hope that V.B. these lines will not catch the eye, I still have to say that he does it in vain. More precisely, for reasons of maximalism and fishing aesthetics, it may be justified, but the practical meaning is minimal. Hooks from expensive firms (Owner, Gamakatsu) definitely do not require fine-tuning before using. Cheaper, however, for the most part too, but options are possible here.

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Moreover, sometimes, even within the same series, hooks of different numbers differ noticeably in their sharpness. So, the smaller Cannelle twins (up to 1/0), which are popular among foam-polishers, are initially sharp, while large ones are very useful to sharpen. Once on the Internet, I came across a rather unexpected piece of advice: do not under any circumstances undermine the “family” (that is, with the sting bent inward) hooks from the Eagle Claw! Since the idea did not come from a “network theorist” (of whom there are a dime a dozen), but from a person who really catches, it was worth thinking about it. Surprisingly, I myself, for ten years already actively using these same hooks, often noted for myself that they would not be damaged by light finishing with the thinnest file, but, nevertheless, I almost always left the “Eagle Claws” in their original state.

The idea, gleaned from the Internet, was formulated something like this: too sharp (that is, additionally sharpened) hook of the Eagle Claw, when striking, scratches the jaw of the pike perch, and often this all ends, while the same hook with a sting in its original state slides along the jaw its hard part and bites, as soon as something relatively soft comes across on its way … It sounds, perhaps, a little irrational, but, according to experience, everything happens that way. At least I am not ready to give any other explanation for the fact that a slightly less sharp hook gives a higher percentage of effective sweeps in catching “fanged”.

author: Konstantin Kuzmin
250 questions about spinning. Directory