Selection of rewinder for the Rybinsk reservoir

The appeal of the non-attachment jig is surprisingly great. Many of my acquaintances catch with bloodworms no less than I do without reeling, and yet they strive to master this method of fishing and rejoice, like children, pulling out the first fish. For me, this means that I often have to dig into other people’s boxes with jigs, saying: “This one is not good … This one too … This hook is bad … This one will do for shallow water, now we will only change the beads” … Well and, of course, you usually climb into your box: “Here’s the main one, here’s the spare, if you go to the depth, tie it up.” On the one hand, it is very pleasant, on the other hand, my capabilities, alas, are modest, I make jigs using the soldering method, that is, very slowly, so I can not help all my friends.

I see the way out in making samples, handing them over to a craftsman who owns the technology of molding jigs, and after emptying his box with a clear conscience, direct the suffering to him. Looking ahead, I will say: the samples are ready, negotiations with the craftsmen are underway. In the overwhelming majority of cases, the desire to master rewinding occurs among the “worms” on the Rybinsk reservoir (in what follows we will call it the Sea). It must be that somehow this magnificent reservoir influences us, pushes us to develop new things, even if at first to the detriment of the catch. Therefore, I set myself the task of forming exactly the “Rybinsky” set of non-attachment jigs.

Shape and weight

The “ant” is considered a traditional Rybinsk rewinder. For many years comparing it with another popular jig, “Uralka”, I did not find any difference in their catching power. And I am completely skeptical about attempts to give the jig a detailed, portrait resemblance to any living prototype. I think it would be much more correct if the jig is slightly similar to all or almost all common aquatic organisms and at the same time allows the angler to give it movements characteristic of a particular prototype on a specific harness, and during fishing – movements characteristic of each of them. That is, the jig should be elongated, dark and oriented in the water at an angle close to vertical. The difference between the “Uralka” and “Ant” I see in different weights and different resistance to movement with the same overall dimensions, which ultimately gives a game of different intensity: the “Ant” is smoother, the “Ural” is sharper.

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The general pattern of the game is similar, and if you take a smaller Uralka, it will play about the same as a larger ant. On the Sea, fish are not afraid of large baits, and I consider the most versatile jig as an “ant” weighing 0.8 g. In stagnant water on a 0.12 mm line, it perfectly catches perch at depths from 1 to 6 m, roach – from 3 to 8 m. On the current and with a thicker line, the depth will be less, and I do not recommend using a thinner line on the Sea. To feel confident in almost any conditions, you need two more jigs – an “ant” weighing 0.5-0.6 g and a “Uralka” weighing 1.1-1.2 g. Material – lead, no tungsten.

Hooks and fittings

This is a much more difficult question. It’s good that the objects of our fishing interest prefer a large, 3-5 mm in size, replanting, so you can limit yourself to a bead with a diameter of 4 mm. But with a hook it will not work. With a sluggish bite, the fish definitely prefers a small hook. With it, there are more bites and fewer rejections, since the bites are more decisive. But hooks, more precisely, jigs with hooks, have, alas, a limit on the size of the fish. If the fish is too large, it cuts its lip with a small hook and comes off. The question is especially acute for roach. The lips of the perch are drier, and the “plywood” beats less on the hook. Therefore, jigs weighing 0.5 and 0.8 g should be made in two versions, with different hooks. And a jig 1.2 g, designed for “harsh” conditions, – in one, with a larger hook.

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The question of the size, thickness, shape of the hook, the type and method of attaching the hoop is one indivisible question. Compared to a soft plastic (for example, made from a twister) bead, a glass bead is more likely to provoke collapses and therefore requires a larger hook. Asymmetric, with a hole not in the middle, or fixed “on a wire” bead approaches in this sense to soft plastic beads, in addition, they move freely along the hook, which, according to many, significantly improves the bite. But they increase the overall size of the bait and shift the “aiming point” – and this, according to my observations, is bad.

A rounded hook gives a more compact bait than limerick or crystal, but requires a bead stopper, while a stopper requires a large hook bar. Both are bad: the stopper restricts the movement of the bead, and the large goatee prevents the hook from being pulled out of the prey. Most of the jigs are lost (broken) at this very moment, since you need to quickly remove the prey from the hook, otherwise the flock will leave. But a bead with a stopper can be replaced with another one of a different size or color, while a bead cannot be removed from a “crystal” hook.

In short, the ideal is unattainable; a compromise must be sought. Personally, I think the most reasonable compromise is a symmetrical, with a hole through the center, a glass bead with a diameter of 4 mm on a hook Gamakatsu LS-1053 No. 8 and No. 10. Please understand correctly, a lead “ant” with such equipment can be replaced with a slightly smaller lead “Uralka” with a round crochet hook and an asymmetric bead or a tungsten “ant” of the same weight with a round hook and wire bead. It will most likely be no worse; but, in my experience, not better, and here ease of manufacture and availability of components come to the fore.

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The jig should be dark, for example black. For comparison, it is possible to paint one or two jigs not entirely and not only in black, but also in green. According to my observations, this improves the bite, but only slightly: you catch 11, at best 12 fish instead of ten. Hook color, if it matters, is minimal. But beads are needed in different colors. Standard colors are white, yellow and orange. If the water is light and clear, take a jig with a white bead. If it is cloudy or transparent, but the color of tea (as in peat quarries) – with orange. The yellow bead is universal. Perhaps in some situations a green, striped or dark bead will give the best result, but I have not done any research on this topic and am not going to do it: I am quite satisfied with how standard colors work.


The set should consist of fifteen jigs. Five each with white, yellow, orange beads; six 0.5 g each, six 0.8 g each and three 1.1 g each 1.1 g jig with hooks Gamakatsu LS-1053 No. 8, the rest – three each with Gamakatsu LS-1053 No. 8 and with Gamakatsu LS -1053 № 10. None of them is unique and can be replaced in case of loss with the same one with a bead of the “neighboring” color. In addition, most real fishing situations are borderline, in which jigs of similar weight categories or with different hooks can be used with approximately equal success. If you already have something similar to what is described in the article in your boxes, great.

Alexander NEYMARK