Selection of jigs

How to choose a jig for certain fishing conditions? By shape, color, body size or hook size? Or maybe the fish doesn’t care, and if it is active, it bites regardless of all these features of the bait? Surely novice fishermen have similar questions, and then doubts torment them: “I’ll give money for all these cute jigs, and the fish will not be tempted by them!” I will share my experience, which can be useful in this difficult issue – the choice of jigs. I use classic jigs and I don’t put anything on them except bloodworms. My choice is patriotic: in Tula we make wonderful jigs from tungsten and its alloys. The shape is not very diverse: usually it is a pellet, an oval and a drop. It is unprofitable for manufacturers to make other versions of the form – it is too laborious.

And to nothing: these jigs also catch fish well. I noticed many times: if it bites well, say, on an oval one, then there is a high probability that it will be caught on a teardrop-shaped one, and vice versa. I put a bloodworm on a pellet – I caught it again! True, when changing the nozzle, droplets and ovals are easier to hold with your fingers than pellets. In short, I made sure that they all catch about the same, especially if you can. The most important difference between jigs of the same type is their size, which is usually understood as the largest diameter of the bait body. It would be possible to operate with the scales of jigs, by analogy with jig heads, but weighing such tiny baits, and then remembering tenths of a gram, is too difficult. For example, the size range of my jigs includes lures with a diameter of 2, 2.2, 2.5, 2.7 and 3 mm, and I catch them in a variety of conditions.

When choosing tungsten jigs, especially those less than 2.5 mm, one should pay attention to the diameter of the forest throughput. If it is made with a thick drill, then the weight of the jig is greatly reduced and the advantage in relative mass that tungsten gives over lead is lost. In the correct jigs in the forest throughput, there is always a protective cambric that prevents the fishing line from chafing when playing fish.

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The colors of the jigs cause a lot of controversy. In non-nozzle fishing, there is probably some sense in choosing the color of the bait. Tungsten jigs do not differ in a variety of colors: there are only four of them. The most common jigs of the color of tungsten itself are silvery-gray, sometimes shiny. The black color is obtained using a special durable coating that does not fade over time. Copper-colored jigs shine at first, but after being in water, they oxidize, darken and become almost black. The gold color of the lures is given by the titanium nitride coating, and they look like jewelry. A lot has been written about the meaning of the color of the jig in the fishing periodicals. Ruff often prefers dark jigs, and perch prefers light ones. In sunny weather, it is better to fish with dull jigs, and in cloudy weather – with shiny ones. This is probably all true, but I’m not completely sure. Recently, on ponds without a stream, I almost never fish with jigs larger than 2.5 mm, so I rarely pay attention to their color, reassuring myself that the baits are small, and it is dark under the water.

What’s really important is the hook. Usually, in the manufacture of high quality jigs, hooks from leading Japanese manufacturers are used. But sometimes you come across good looking baits, and the forend of the hook bends, prying unbends, as a result – descents and low fishing efficiency. The size of the hook and the thickness of the wire are also important: on a small and thin hook, bloodworms leak less and live much longer. Hooks larger than No. 18 according to the international classification are only suitable for planting a bunch of bloodworms, which is rarely practiced in Tula reservoirs. The usual size of the hook is No. 20-22, and for jigs with a diameter of less than 2 mm it reaches No. 26. The color of the hook is probably the most insignificant factor – we are not catching trophy carp with boilies.

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I take at least a dozen fishing rods to the pond. By analogy with summer float fishing, each rod is a separate ready-made rig. And they should be different, and it is very desirable to duplicate all the options, again by analogy with preparing gear for summer float fishing. Small jigs are difficult to lower to the bottom on a thick line. Therefore, the deeper the reservoir, the relatively large jigs are required, otherwise most of the fishing time can be spent on lowering the tiny bait. I only go for it if the fish is extremely moody. The thinner the line, the higher the speed of lowering the jig to the working horizon, however, the risk of entanglement of the line also increases. Say, in order to lower the jig 2.5 mm to a depth of 5-6 m at normal speed, a fishing line of 0.06-0.07 mm is suitable, but not thicker than 0.08 mm. If you put a 0.10 mm fishing line, then the weight of the jig will not be enough to effectively straighten the fishing line in the water, and then not only will it be difficult to lower the bait, but no correct game will work!

Further, the selection of tackle depends on the activity of the fish. For example, I start fishing with a jig with a diameter of 2.7 mm from a depth of 4 m. The fish was found, but instead of good bites, I mainly see only weak pokes, which I cannot catch. This is a signal: you need to take a fishing rod from the box with a jig smaller, say, 2.5 mm. Depending on the result, I either continue to fish with this rod, or take the next one, with an even smaller jig. So it is possible to select the maximum size jig, with which the lowering speed is acceptable, and the most effective bites occur. If the fish is so active that jigs of any size are enough, as happens, for example, on the last ice, then it is more profitable to fish with a heavier bait: this saves time. But it happens that the fish is inactive, and the weather is bad: strong winds, frost picks up the hole. Fishing with a small jig in such conditions is very difficult, and you have to take a larger one, so weather conditions can also dictate the size of the bait.

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The reservoirs where I fish are not very fishy, ​​and you often come across bastards. Small jigs help out: even a passive fish, not feeling their weight, grabs the bait confidently enough – you will not miss a bite. The fall of the bait is slow, and it is often possible to catch above the bottom. At the same time, the difference in bite on jig 2.2 and 2.0 mm can be very significant. Smaller lures are used practically only in sports competitions, and even then if the depth allows. The size of the bloodworm can greatly affect the play of such tiny jigs, therefore, one small, fodder is often planted. However, if with a sluggish bite, fishing is carried out on a stationary jig, you can also put on a pair of bloodworms, because the game is not required in this case. I don’t know if the way the bloodworm is planted is very important. When I’m in a hurry, I hook it with a hook at random, often in the middle. It happens that a small perch does not swallow the bloodworm whole, but pulls by the tail; in this case, this method of insertion wins for sure: the tail of the one inserted in the middle is shorter.

So let’s summarize. When fishing with a classic jig, first of all, not the color and shape of the bait is chosen, but its size. This choice is dictated by the fishing conditions: the depth of the reservoir, the weather, the activity of the fish. The diameter of the fishing line depends not so much on the size of the fish as on the size of the jig. And having picked up a fishing rod with the required parameters of the tackle in your box, you will only have to enjoy fishing.

Alexander Galyatkin