Pike on a balancer. Part 2


I am always touched by the photos found in fishing publications for materials on pike fishing, on which the lure-taker holds a standard rod with a short handle and a thin whip. Yes, a pike is not a walleye, but it can pull out the rod, and if it doesn’t vomit, it will break both the whip and the handle! Therefore, the requirements for a fishing rod for luring pike are as follows: warm comfortable handle the length of the palm and, better, grooved: why – see above; a reel made of durable plastic with a tough, well-adjustable friction clutch, ideally a small cartoon, but not a cheap “china”; durable rigid fiberglass whip up to 0.5 m long for standing fishing. In general, an option from the series “what you bought – do it yourself.” I always put the watchdog on all types of lines. It also performs the role of a weak bite signaling device, and extinguishes residual fluctuations of the bait – after returning to the original balancer, it should immediately freeze.

You can fish with both monofilament line and braided line. With a mono with a diameter of 0.25-0.35 mm, it is easier and cheaper, and with a cord of 0.15-0.20 mm, it seems more reliable, especially if at a decent depth, but in the current and in snags. The number of bites with different types of fishing line is unlikely to be different, but their performance can fluctuate, and in both directions, depending on the fishing conditions. I always knit the cord only through the knotless fastener to keep the maximum breaking load. I knit mono with ordinary knots through a swivel, small, but made of thick wire. For lines of different manufacturers and brands, you have to select your own knots, since the correct knot can give a gain of up to 1 kg per break. With the correct node, the break usually does not occur at it. Knotting options are often indicated on spools of fishing line or bags of hooks.

When knitting knots, it is better to double the end of the fishing line or put a cut piece of thin cambric on the swivel ring – a knot on the backing. The balancer without a swivel twists the line, which is easy to see when buying it at home in the bath. As a result, during the pause, the bait begins to unwind. This rotation, of course, is not critical, but it is better to avoid it anyway. I always use a leash and make it myself: ready-made purchased leashes are a thing in themselves: they will let you down for sure, but you don’t know when. Indestructible leashes are obtained from guitar string ## 1-2. The thickness is not very pleasant, but the “iron” argument when fishing in places with hooks.

See also  Fishing for mormyshka with and without a nozzle


I mainly catch pike on balance beams. Due to the peculiarities of the location of the hooks and the pike bites themselves, the effectiveness of sweeping with spoons is less, nevertheless, it is too early to completely remove them from the accounts. The sight of good branded balancers can delight even aesthetes: a bait that copies a food item often looks much more attractive than a live fish! True, aesthetic perfection is a secondary sign: when choosing a balancer for a pike, you need to pay more attention to the size and extension of single hooks – both are preferably larger. The bending angle of single bends should be small in relation to the axis of the balancer. The standard tee usually changes to a larger one, No. 4-6 according to the international system, but when playing, the tee should not overlap with the body of the bait. Balance weights of quite pike size with good hooks start from 5 cm. The sizes of 7 and 9 cm will also come in handy, and it is difficult to find larger ones on sale now. In general, there is no single standard for the size of balancers. Five and seven are universal sizes, and a perch is also happy to take on them. You don’t have to be smart with colors, coloring for perch and roach is quite enough.

I slightly finish the purchased balancers, making them slow planning and long damping of oscillations. By the way, even expensive branded baits do not “draw” the usually advertised eight. There are many ways to fine-tune the balancers, but the need for such modified and finely tuned lures comes only with the experience of spinning, so at the initial stage it is not at all necessary to bother about this. The proprietary balancer will work, the hand will be tucked in, the lure technique will be polished – all that remains is to figure out the choice of places, depth of fishing and fish tastes. And although even an inactive pike likes a well-planning balancer, in the absence of one, after a little hesitation, it will gobble up the most standard proposed by you.

See also  The first ice at Lanshinsky quarry


At one time, I was amazed at how primitive it is when fishing for pike! It is better to start the initial fishing of holes in half water, making smooth swings and pauses lasting 5-8 seconds between them. Having reached the bottom, we carefully probe it, lightly hitting the bait a couple of times. No bites – go to a different depth. Then we shine in the bottom layer, up to 1 m from the bottom: the same smooth sweeps with the same pauses. The pike usually takes on a 2-4 swing-pause cycle and very rarely later. Having caught a hole and not seeing a bite, we move on to the next one. You can, of course, hatch the fish, playing for a long time in one hole or on one point, but with such a tactic, the overall performance is usually much lower than with an active search.


A playing balancer pike can “sniff” a couple of times lightly touching in the manner of a perch, and then, after a little thought, decide on a grip or move away. This is not a pure bite. In this case, replacing the balancer with a lure of a different color-size or a minimal change in playing technique often leads to repeated grip. It is also necessary to change the bait and the wiring technique after a regular grip or an empty sweep. A bad consequence of this type of bite is that the pike crumples the single hooks of the balancers, usually the front one, after which the bait has to be changed. This happens more often when fishing at night, and during the day on small low-flow reservoirs, but from the middle of winter it can happen everywhere.

See also  Spinning rods for catching "white" predator

Bream bite – the usual lifting of the gatehouse, then hooking and playing. Bending the gatehouse down is also a chic version of the grip, followed by a sweep and subsequent playing. A hang or a hook is a bite that requires an instant hooking, otherwise the balance bar will instantly spit out and drop 1.5-2 m of fishing line. The favorite variant of the crocodile grip. With such a bite, the bait is easy to plant in a snag. A blow to the hand is a jerk. And in this case, not everything is so simple. The pike can really pull out and drag the rod, and on the counter-sweep, cut the line, break the whip or the handle. If the fish strikes on the move, not having time to close the mouth, the balancer generally flies out or catches the very edge of the mouth. As a result, the subsequent descent is more than real, after which a dent will remain on the leash 3-5 cm above the balance bar.

In conclusion, it must be said that as the middle of winter approaches – the deafness – the fish becomes lethargic, inactive. However, the pike still continues to feed, and it is always quite possible to catch it. It’s just that at this time you need to choose large reservoirs for fishing, rivers with a good oxygen regime. And always be ready to face a toothy monster.

Alexander GUROV