Tackle with a diverter lead is by far the most common and successful for catching perch by both sportsmen and amateurs. In this post I would like to dwell on some of the features of the diverter leash regarding equipment and fishing technique as applied to pond perch.
We build equipment
There are several equipment options, but the triple swivel design is the one I tend to use, which is simple and very effective. Here, I think, everything is clear: the main line is tied to one eye of the swivel, the leash with a sinker is tied to the other, and the leash itself with the bait is attached to the third. If you like any other design of the diverter leash, catch it, most likely it will not be worse. I believe that the choice of this or that type of rig, if you do not consider some of the nuances, is not so important, much more important are its components.
The lead to the swivel is usually attached with a thick monofilament line. But where dense shell rock or sharp stones are often found, you can put a regular string leash. A length of 20-25 cm is sufficient. The lead itself can be of different shapes, but I don’t see much point in using something complex, so I fish mostly with regular drop-shaped ones, less often with oblong ones, reminiscent of a stick. The latter will come in handy in strong places, and besides, it is very convenient to adjust the weight of the load to the conditions of fishing right on the pond, simply by biting off the required amount of lead with pliers. What should be used to make a leash – fluorocarbon or mono? I use both and honestly don’t see much difference. Therefore, I will advise monofil. It holds a lot of stress compared to fluorocarbon. From all that I have tried, the Sakura Aya line made the best impression. But it is not at all necessary to use such an expensive one. There are some very decent options in the Gamakatsu G-Line. The use of “branded” lines is a personal choice of everyone, although it is hardly worth saving here. And the standard unwinding of 100-150 m is enough for a full season.
From fluoro I have been using YGK Galis Rock Fish for the second year. The length of the diverter lead varies depending on several conditions, the main of which is the activity of the fish. The lower it is, the longer the leash should be. I do not put leashes shorter than a meter, but longer ones – very often. The maximum length is determined by the convenience of throwing the entire structure, but it is unlikely that a leash longer than two meters is needed in pond fishing conditions. The optimum thickness of a monofilament leader is 0.18-20 mm, for a fluorocarbon one – 0.20-22 mm. You can also use a thinner line, provided that you fish on a fairly clean bottom without shell rock. At first glance, offset hooks in a rig with a diverter lead are the most correct option.
However, I tend to use regular single hooks. The fact is that I often have to catch small perch, which is very scrupulous about the size of the bait, and the hook in particular. Even the smallest offset maker offered in stores today is reluctant to swallow such a perch. And the bait does not come into contact with the bottom so often, especially if it is floating. Mainly the sinker is engaged. In other words, for myself, I made a firm choice in favor of single hooks. They do not save on hooks, so you should put quality ones. I am completely satisfied with both sharpness and reliability of the LS-1223F series from Gamakatsu. The same company has a white series of hooks with notches. Silicone bait holds on such hooks a little more reliably than on ordinary ones, but these are still rather weak and often simply break.
Whoever says anything, a lot depends on the bait. When the conversation comes about what is tied to a leash, many anglers begin to “encrypt”. And this can be understood: behind the right choice of a particular bait there are many days of training, or even whole seasons. The main bait is, of course, the twister. But, you see, there is no difference between the twister and the twister. Here you need to guess the three most important parameters: size, shape and color. And if with the first two everything is more or less clear and they are selected based primarily on the activity of the fish, then with the color everything is not so obvious. Probably, every spinning player who is advanced in catching with a diverter lead, and even more so an athlete, has his own “secret” colors and shades of rubber. They work for the one who catches them much better than others, but fishermen usually cannot explain why this happens.
Once at one of our local competitions I caught a very good perch: six striped fish against the background of total barking and passivity inspired hope for a place in the top three. I caught all the perches on the same yellow twister. Although I experimented long and hard in training, I could only catch it. And now, a few minutes before the finish line, I give the same twister to my friend, who until that moment had a “steering wheel” in the offset. And, imagine, during this time he catches two good fish on the yellow twister, which are enough for him for the third place. I was the second at those competitions, and for my friend the yellow twister has since become one of the most favorite.
There is an opinion that the bait in the lead-in line should be floating. Maybe not so often, but still more than once I had the opportunity to be convinced of the validity of this opinion. Perch is really partial to floating twisters. For myself, I noted that the buoyancy of rubber should not be too high. If the twister flies to the surface like a cork, it will alert the perch rather than attract. Most often I fish with Relax twisters in the size of 1-1.5 inches and have never come across a situation where the perch was indifferent to them. The most popular colors for me and, apparently, for the perch are yellow, green, purple, “machine oil” and their various variations – with sparkles, etc.
The question of the “edibility” of the bait is solved simply: I use various attractants, the most effective and convenient of which are Mega Strike and Nitro Grease. A twister, greased with one of these gels, is eaten with appetite not only by perches, but also by almost any white fish. Several times I came across scabbards and even crucian carp. The smallest twisters Megabass, Ecogear, Yum, Fina and others are also irresistible for pond bass. Medium and large perch do not allow silicone worms to pass through. I have successfully caught these on Zoom 4 “Dead Ringer. A wobbler can be successfully used as a bait. In addition, the average size of the perch that bites on the wobbler is usually slightly larger, which is very important in competition. For pond bass, the smallest minnows and shadiki with neutral or slightly positive buoyancy are suitable. The Jackson Komachi 45S was and still is the best for me in this application.
If you had to observe the technique of posting athletes-perches, then surely there are more questions than answers. Sometimes the animation of the lead leash in their performance resembles some kind of secret sacrament, which only the initiated can understand. Mindlessly copying such a technique is not the best option. It is important to understand what, why and how we do it. Having mastered the basic wiring technique, you can always count on a good result. I usually start with staggered wiring with two turns of the coil at a medium fast pace. This is often enough to catch a perch. Such wiring allows you to very quickly catch active fish from a local point or break through an unfamiliar water area. If the perch is out of sorts, you should reduce the rewinding speed, reduce the number of revolutions to one, or even half, and, possibly, increase the pause. Nine times out of ten it helps.
However, the most intractable small perch helps to catch the wiring with the help of the rod. After one or several jerks-broaches with the tip of the rod, we reel in the weakened line in order to always control what is happening at the other end. The number of different options for such postings is limited only by your imagination. But again, a lot depends on the activity of the fish. Only the rule “passive perch – slow posting” does not always work. A striped fish can be stirred up by sharp short jerks of the bait literally in one place, which has been repeatedly tested.
I often combine stepped leash with jerk. For example, when I fish from slabs. Most of the wiring I lead the rig only with the help of the reel, and when it comes to the edge of the plates, where there are usually a lot of small and not very pebbles (this is well felt when the lead comes out to a harder bottom), I start working with a rod. You have to pull through the load in jerks. Such places are very attractive for perch, therefore it is during this phase of the posting that a bite should be expected. The same goes for shell rock.