Zherlitsy, any of their models, are pretty cheap gear. However, for starters, I would advise you not to purchase this equipment, with rare exceptions, in fishing stores, so as not to immediately be disappointed in it. Any wintering fisherman in the household will have materials at hand that can easily make dozens of winter lanterns, but homemade tackle must meet such requirements as simplicity of construction, speed of assembly and disassembly, ease of use, and compactness when assembled. There are many designs of girders, and yet none of them can be called universal. The fact is that when fishing from the ice you have to constantly deal with unusual situations.
I will give at least such an example. You arrived at the pond in a thaw, put up the zergelis, charged them with live bait, but there was no bite during the day. You decided to leave the tackle on ice on the ice until morning, and frost hit the night – the fishing line froze into the ice, and the bonnet of the female trainees was seized tight. Well, if there is ice pick, then you can gently chop off the ice and free the gear from the ice captivity. But the trophy, as a rule, can no longer count. Most often, the predator in this case wrinkles and throws bait. But if you replaced the coils with an under-ice spreader, the effect would be exactly the opposite. And there are a great many such “ifs”.
The simplest and easiest to make zherlitsa, with which, as a matter of fact, I began to master in due time fishing for pike on live bait from ice, looks as follows. The stand is a lightweight dural corner with an edge 10-15 mm wide and 35-37 cm long. A piece of cork with a hole for free movement of a steel strip with a flag on the end is attached with a nylon thread and waterproof glue to the top of it. The coil is machined from a solid finely porous foam. Its diameter is usually 60-70 mm. A good reel on a fluoroplastic sleeve is less likely to freeze to the axis when moisture enters and should have a certain inertia of braking, which helps to prevent line overlapping during a pike hold. The same purpose is served by the absence of axial play on the coil and a not too elastic retainer, which is triggered by a force of about 0.15 kgf.
On the reel, depending on the depth of fishing, 15-20 m of strong, carefully tested fishing line are wound. When you drill or chop a hole, clear the area around it of crumbs of ice. This will reduce the risk that the fishing line gets tangled or hooks at the most inopportune moment when playing the pike. It is especially offensive if a trophy specimen comes off the hook. After the planted live bait is lowered to the desired depth, the coil is fixed with a steel strip. If the bait fish is small, the strip is pushed out of the hole in the cork more, with a frisky, larger bait – on the contrary. Otherwise, live bait will “show” you false bites.
The coil to the aluminum lever and the lever itself are attached to the rack using bolts, nuts and locknuts. When assembling and disassembling a vent, a screwdriver is needed. The flag is best made from red or black fabric, which does not absorb moisture if possible. This vent has the disadvantage that on the last ice, when the sun warms up, the metal rack falls to the side, because the ice at its base quickly melts. Therefore, in the spring it makes sense to replace a metal stand with a wooden one.
Now about the snap. Usually I equip the monolithic girders with a diameter of 0.30-0.45 mm. Universal is considered transparent monofilament, but sometimes it is more advisable to put green, gray and even black. The choice of fishing line depends on the degree of illumination of the water under the ice, as well as on the presence of water plants (on the first ice).
As you know, fishing lines are soft and hard. Which one is better? In my opinion, both of them have their pros and cons. The soft one cushions better during the fighting, but is weaker in contact with pike teeth. The stiffer is less confused on ice, especially in strong winds. Of the double such monofilament, I usually make leashes that replace me with metal ones.
A special mention should be made about a metal leash. The fact that he scares away predatory fish is beyond any doubt. Therefore, it is desirable that the multicore steel core be in a soft braid. The leash is 25-30 cm long, it is most appropriate to use it during an active pike zhora, which is rare in winter.
And it seems to me that you should not scare novice zharilniks that the pike only does that by biting the fishing line. According to my data, this only happens when cutting is too sharp, as well as forced fighting. But that is precisely the art of hunting for a pike, in order to provoke its grip, to correctly cut it and not to drag it through the hole. Why am I talking about this? Yes, if only because in my practice (I have been catching zergelites for almost 30 years), breaks of a leash from a double monofilament occurred only because of my own fault (for example, when I put an untested old fishing line on leashes). And there were not many such cases. But, when I found myself on ice next to a zhelnik, who used a metal leash in equipment, my catch, as a rule, was 70-80 percent higher than its catch.
Some fishermen above the leash set a sliding sinker like "olives", others prefer a blind mount. In my opinion, the second option is more practical when cutting and playing. However, one should not get carried away by heavy weight sinkers – this quickly tires the live bait, it loses mobility and, in the end, just freezes 30-50 cm from the bottom. A predator, as you know, reacts more aggressively to frisky fish. As you can see, the device of the winter lantern is extremely simple. But here there are secrets. When choosing a particular design, first of all, you need to pay attention to the following main parameters:
1. The diameter of the coil should be large enough. A good reel does not have lateral play during rotation, prevents the formation of a “wig” after a sharp bite and provides the most free descent of fishing line during the movement of a predator with live bait in its mouth. Knowing how many centimeters in one revolution of the coil, you can easily control the desired depth for live bait, without resorting each time to using a depth gauge.
2. In frosty weather, you need to constantly ensure that the metal alarm spring and the flag do not freeze to the coil. The length of the latch (40-50 cm) must be adjusted so that it does not work idle, depending on the size and speed of the live bait.
3. An important factor is the height of the racks of the lantern. Preferred are fairly high (35-37 cm) models, clearly visible even with thick snow cover and at a considerable distance.
4. Given the fact that it is often necessary to catch in extreme conditions, the requirements for the zergelika come down to one thing: the simpler the better. At the same time, each element of the girder must be reliable. It is important, for example, that when the predator grip, the coil does not receive too much acceleration due to the operation of the elastic spring-retainer. There are frequent cases when this leads to overwhelming fishing line by the lever of the reel. That is why in this sense, more acceptable are the girders on the tripod, in which the end of the latch with a flag abuts against the inner wall of the gutter, across the coil.
author: Kazantsev V.
We catch from the ice. All Secrets of Winter Fishing (Complete Fishing Guide)
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