Cranks and shades: scope and fishing technique. Part 2

Cranks and shades: scope and fishing technique. Part 2

Price and quality

Among spinning players, especially beginners, there is an opinion that the more expensive the bait, the better it catches fish. If we talk about wobblers of famous Japanese companies, such as Megabass, Smith, Zip Baits, then there is a certain reason for this point of view. These companies produce high-quality wobblers that really catch fish well, but also stand accordingly. However, there are exceptions to this rule. For example, Tsuribito launches the Deep Crank 65 SDR model, which is actually a copy of one of Bassday’s wobblers. However, although this krenk is two times cheaper than the original, it is in no way inferior to it in terms of its working qualities and subtlety.

Another example of an inexpensive, but very catchy bait is the wobbler of St. Petersburg company Vuoksa – Deep Runner 7. This can be said to be a unique bait. The fact is that it is made of balsa, and, as you know, such wobblers are very vulnerable to pike teeth. Sharp teeth pierce the protective layer of the bait, water begins to penetrate the body, and the wobbler loses the game. Vuoksa Deep Runner was an exception. The manufacturers covered the body with a protective layer of some kind of foil, which none of the hundreds of pikes I caught on this wobbler could bite, so that the wobbler still remains in operation. Other wobblers featuring a stable game and good catchability for several years include Daiwa Pro’s Flick Beat 55 TD and Daiwa Crank Scouter 1051 lures, as well as Jackall Bross D Cherry 48 lures with a depth of 2 meters and DD Cherry 55 with a deepening up to 3 meters. Like any spinning player, the set of lures I have is very extensive, but I use these wobblers more often than others.

A trailer is a necessary thing

When fishing on terrain, you have to put up with frequent hooks and periodic losses of expensive baits. To avoid them, sometimes a cutoff helps. This is perhaps the most necessary thing in this type of fishing. Recently, in addition to traditional trailers, new ones have appeared on sale, with metal cable loops. They are designed to pull tees out of the hooks, but, as practice shows, the bait itself often spoils. In order to save the wobbler, it is better to use the traditional version – a lead egg or a ball weighing 500 grams with a metal ring having a slot for fishing line. In the case of a hook, I am anchored, get up over the hook, put the fishing line into the slot in the ring and lower the hook to the bait on the rope. After that I raise the uncoupler by 15-20 cm and try to knock the wobbler off the drift with soft impactors. In most cases, after a few minutes, the lead ball swings the hooks and the bait detaches. Such a cutoff has been serving me for ten years now and saved me many thousands of rubles – without it, two-thirds of my lures would have remained at the bottom.

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Cord or mono?

Recently, many anglers when fishing on wobblers prefer to use braided cords because of their high strength and information content. However, in my opinion, not everything is so clear on this issue. When I was just starting to catch, I used a monofilament with a diameter of 0.2-0.25 mm. Provided that the fishing line is of high quality, I was able to pull out pikes up to 5 kg. There was a case when on a fishing line of 0.16 mm, moreover, which had already served the third season, I managed to take a pike per 5.8 kg for a small turntable weighing 1.5 g. So with a properly adjusted clutch, the strength of the fishing line is not so critical. At the same time, the monoleska has a certain advantage: it has some extensibility, due to which the wobbler goes on it more gently, which often positively affects the bite.

Such a nuance is of no small importance: the wobbler touched an obstacle, but on the mono and the cord its further movements will be completely different. This is a fundamental point, since most often a bite occurs immediately after the bait touches the bottom or obstacle. Perhaps the predator responds to a crash in the game, but on different lines it will happen in completely different ways. However, it is simply impossible to say what, under what conditions and under what bait, to give preference. It is necessary to constantly experiment, this is what distinguishes fishing for krenki and shaded reliefs. In any case, a spool with monofilament must be with you.

The main thing is the place

Fishing for wobblers is not about anchoring anywhere with a depth of 4 meters and, putting a wobbler with a depth of 3.5 m, start to fan in all directions. From the outside, everything looks right, but the result is usually zero. Such failures in most cases are explained by the fact that the bottom in the area of ​​the wiring is flat, and even if the channel is far from the place of fishing, there is simply nothing for the predator to do there. As a rule, a spinning player, having tried this kind of fishing several times, throws this matter for a long time and with full confidence tells everyone that nothing is caught in krenki.

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A huge number of factors affect the result of fishing, but the main thing, in my opinion, is the correct choice of location. Before you begin any fishing, especially for Crenkie, you need to study the topography of the bottom, find a place that could attract a predator – braids, navels, any other bottom heterogeneities. It is very desirable to find such elevations over which the depth will be equal to the maximum depth of the wobbler. Say, a spit, at the upper point of which 2.5 meters of water, and along the dumps already 4 meters. I have a wobbler with a depth of 2.5 meters. I get on 4 meters and throw the wobbler over the braid – to where there are also four. I sharply “spur” the wobbler – the tip of the rod to the water and 4-5 sharp turns of the reel. This is done to ensure that the wobbler quickly gained working depth. Then I slowly lead the bait.

To understand the topography of the bottom, it is advisable to first go over this place with an echo sounder. Since long casting is not possible when fishing on wobblers, you have to accurately calculate the fishing distance so that the working section of the wiring gets to the most promising point. Here it is necessary to take into account the fact that different baits require a different distance for deepening, but on average, for a wobbler to go 3 meters, it must go about 5 meters from the splash point.

It also takes some distance to lift the wobbler, but there are at least some options for maneuver. It happens, for example, that it is simply necessary for the bait to approach the boat at maximum depth. Say, he’s taking it right under the boat, but there’s no way to change. In this case, at the end of the wiring it is necessary to lower the rod into the water almost to the reel. This is fraught with trouble: the bait is not visible and you can hit it on a tulip, but sometimes this is the only way to catch an interesting point. As a rule, when fishing for pike perch and pike you do not need to hook on wobblers: several tees cling so well and it is difficult to miss a bite.

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In conclusion, I would like to dwell on the question that often arises among beginner spinning players: how important is it when choosing a place so that the echo sounder shows the presence of fish at a given point? Of course, at this moment I pay attention, but only last. The main thing is the relief, and as for the fish symbols, the main importance is how they are located relative to the relief. If I see a joint in the water column, then it is clear that this is not a predator. But if large symbols are visible on the screen that are “stuck” to the edge, then it is likely that this is my predator fish.

Andrey ZhIVIN